What to do in Tarifa

Tarifa's old town is a maze of whitewashed alleyways with a distinctly Andalusian-Moorish feel: the Jerez Gate, the covered market with its fresh fish stalls and the terraces where time seems to stop. Getting lost in its nooks and crannies is the best plan of all.

The 10th-century castle looms over the harbour with the same resolve that gave it its name: it was here that Guzmán el Bueno chose to sacrifice his own son rather than surrender the town. From its walls, on a clear day, the sunset over the Strait is the kind you don't forget.

Just a short walk from the town, kilometres of fine white sand stretch out along the coast. Los Lances runs along the shore beside the old town, perfect for a quiet swim or a morning with no agenda.

A little further north, Valdevaqueros impresses with its huge sand dune pushing inland from the shoreline. This is Europe's kitesurf and windsurf mecca: the levante and poniente winds take turns creating conditions unique in the world, and the colours of the kites against the sky are a spectacle in themselves.

Only 14 km separate Europe from Africa at the narrowest point of the Strait of Gibraltar. From almost any corner of Tarifa you can see the mountains of Morocco on the horizon: a sight that never loses its power, no matter how many times you see it.

The Strait is also one of the best places in the world for whale and dolphin watching: dolphins can be seen almost year-round, and in season there are real chances of encountering orcas and pilot whales. From the deck of the YEMAYA, sailing quietly under canvas, the odds go up considerably.

Tarifa is Europe's wind capital, and for good reason: the Strait acts as a natural funnel between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, channelling and accelerating two dominant winds that locals know intimately.

The levante is the easterly wind: warm, dry and sometimes relentless, it can blow for days on end at over 30 knots. It is responsible for the spectacular sand clouds seen over the Strait and for making Tarifa's beaches a world kitesurf mecca. The poniente comes in from the Atlantic (cooler and more humid) and typically brings gentler, more comfortable sailing conditions.

For sailing, the best days come with a moderate poniente or a gentle levante: full sails, calm seas and the silhouette of Morocco on the horizon. Our skippers monitor the forecast daily and always choose the most suitable weather window.

The Strait of Gibraltar is one of the richest marine ecosystems in Europe. The currents connecting the Atlantic and Mediterranean create an exceptionally productive food chain, and cetaceans have been taking advantage of it for thousands of years.

Striped dolphins and common dolphins can be spotted almost year-round, often bow-riding alongside the YEMAYA. Between June and August, the Strait concentrates Atlantic orcas that follow the almadraba tuna; it is one of the few places in the world where this species can be seen from a small boat. Long-finned pilot whales are also regular visitors to the Strait.

Loggerhead sea turtles, Atlantic bluefin tuna and devil rays complete an underwater picture that reminds you that sailing here is not just about the horizon: it's about discovering what lies beneath.

The best way to understand Tarifa is from the water. Aboard the YEMAYA you can choose between a 3-hour sailing trip with anchorage, snorkelling and homemade tapas on board, or your first sailing lesson in a private session tailored to your level. The Strait from the sea is a completely different experience to viewing it from land.

Tarifa means bluefin tuna from the almadraba. Each spring, the traditional almadraba trap at Zahara de los Atunes catches tuna using an ancient technique, and the old-town restaurants serve it every which way: as tataki, braised cheek, or dried mojama. Fried fish and seafood along the promenade round out a simple, genuinely local food scene.

And the best potato omelette in Tarifa is served on board the YEMAYA. Yes, we really mean that.

When to come: Tarifa is beautiful year-round, but the ideal sailing season runs from spring to autumn. The levante wind can blow hard for days at a stretch; if you have specific dates, ask us and we can advise on the best weather windows.

Getting here: the nearest airports are Jerez (1 hr), Seville (1.5 hr), Gibraltar (45 min) and Málaga (2 hr). There are direct buses from Algeciras and from Málaga bus station, and by car the A-7 takes you straight to the harbour. Always pack an extra layer for the breeze; in the Strait the wind chills even on sunny days.